Dual Headlight Loom Wire Fitting.

Underline


Dual Light Modification Tutorial:

There are numerous tutorials for this modification on the internet so it is obviously a popular one! The plan for this one is to show how to approach fitting the new loom wire and connectors so as to be able to have both headlights on at the same time like they do in the European model FZ6 Fazer. Hopefully this tutorial may show something that others may have missed, either way this is how I did it.

The Replacement Wire:

It is important that before starting the dual headlight modification a replacement wire for the loom needs to be made. Follow this link for more details on making said loom and connectors. Dual Light Loom.

Preparation:

Before starting the strip down procedure to reveal the various connectors and wires it is worth sorting out the following items in preparation for the job.
  • A couple of elastic bungee's, (to hold the tank clear).
  • A medium sized phillips head screwdriver.
  • A metric set of Allen keys.
  • A 10mm A/F socket, small extension bar and wrench.
  • 8 to 12 small black cable ties, (to tidy the loom wire later).
  • Wire cutters, (For trimming cable ties).
  • Pliers, (for compression hose clips).
  • Electrical circuit tester, (not essential but handy).
  • Empty plastic containers for bolts and screws.
  • The homemade loom wire with connectors.

The Strip down:

Before you start make sure you have got everything that you need for the job. When you are ready, proceed with the following stages of strip down to reveal the required electrical block connectors.
  1. Remove the two fairing plastic insert retaining bolts from each side of the bike, (figure 1).
  2. Carefully remove the plastic fairing inserts from each side, (figure 2).
  3. Remove the two fuel tank retaining bolts, (figure 3).
  4. Tape some string to each of the fuel tank breather pipes, (figure 4).
  5. Remove the seat, (this can be done at any time prior to step 6).
  6. Carefully raise the fuel tank unclipping the two electrical connectors from underneath, (note which ones go where). Secure the tank in position using bungee's on the rear grab rail, (figure 5).
  7. disconnect the battery leads, unclip the electrical component from the battery cover and remove the battery cover. Undo the four battery tray retainer bolts, (figure 6).
  8. Remove the battery and put it somewhere safe, (figure 7).
  9. Remove the six self tapping screws from the air box cover and remove the cover, (not essential but it makes life easier later). Locate the hose clips and slide them down the hoses, (don't forget the one at the front). Remove the electrical sensor from the air box, (figure 8).
  10. You can now ease out the air box unit and slide back the battery tray making sure not to dislodge rubbish into the intake trumpets. It is a good idea to cover these intakes at this stage for exactly that reason.

Fitting The Loom Wire:

Having completed up to stage 10 you can now feed the homemade loom wire from the headlight bulb end through to the battery compartment end following existing wiring where possible, (figure 9).
  1. Locate and split the wiring loom block connector, (found in a rubber boot just in front of the battery tray location). Feed the loom wire through the rubber boot and insert the terminal into the vacant block connector slot that aligns with the green wire in the opposing side of the connector block (figure 10).
  2. Re-assemble the block connector. At this stage it is worth checking the circuit with an electrical meter if you have one available just to be on the safe side. When you are happy the circuit is viable return the block connector to the protective rubber boot.
  3. Now locate the connector block for the bulb at the headlight end and raise the cover flap. insert the new spade connector into the vacant slot noting that it will only fit one way due to the nature of the cut away for the loom wire, (figure 11).
  4. Replace the block connector cover and refit onto the headlight bulb terminals, (figure 12).
  5. Use small black cable ties to fix the new loom wire to the existing loom to keep it neat and tidy, (figure 13).

Putting It All Back:

In most cases putting the bike back together is the reverse procedure of taking it apart making sure parts are clean and free from obstruction as you go.
  1. Re-fit the battery tray making sure the wiring is tucked away neatly without snags, (figure 14).
  2. Replace the air box over the manifold trumpets, (figure 15). Before placing the air box over the trumpets make sure the Jubilee clips on the bottom have the correct rotation as governed by a notch in the rubber and a tab on the Jubilee clip.
  3. Re-attach the hoses and electrical contacts that were removed from the air box earlier. Slide up the hose clips and align them as before, (figure 16). You can get an indication of alignment for the clips from the indentations in the hose rubber.
  4. Replace the air filter and air box cover. Secure the cover with the six self tapping screws, (figure 17). Replace the four bolts that retain the air box and battery tray and cover.
  5. Replace the battery terminals and electrical components on the battery as it was before checking for snags or trapped wiring.
  6. Lower the fuel tank and re-connect the two electrical terminals to the underside. Using the string taped to the breather pipes earlier gently pull the pipes back down to their original position. (At this stage it might be worth checking that the modification works by starting the bike and testing the lights).
  7. All working OK? (figure 18). Remove the string from the fuel tank breather tubes and replace the fuel tank retainer bolts.
  8. Replace the plastic fairing inserts both sides of the bike and secure with the retainer bolts.
  9. Replace the seat.

Check It All Still Works:

Now you have put your pride and joy back together it is worth checking that all the electrical components work the way they should do. Start the bike and check the high beam and flash still function, (the dipped beam filament on the right hand side, (from the perspective of sitting on the bike) should go out when the high beam is activated). Check the tail light works. Test the brake light functions from both foot and hand brake levers. Check indicators, hazard lights and horn still work. Don't forget to re-set the time on the clock.
Enjoy seeing more and being seen more on those dark evenings!

Credits:
Biker Dude 43, (AKA BD 43): For figuring out the relevant connections on the block connector.
Adam: For information on wiring amperage and other technical electrical stuff.
GameStone: For his modified pin drawing dimensions.


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Plastic containers for storing bolts, screws and clips removed from the bike in the strip down procedure.
Plastic Containers.


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Some of the tools needed to complete the strip down procedure of the bike.
Tools.

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Figure 1:
Remove the two Allen head bolts that retain the plastic fairing insert from both sides of the bike, (4 bolts in total).
Fairing Plastic Insert Bolts.
Figure 1.
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Figure 2:
After removing the Allen head bolts, carefully remove the fairing plastic inserts from both sides making sure you don't scratch the tank.
Fairing Plastic Insert.
Figure 2.

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Figure 3:
Remove the two Allen head bolts and washers that retain the petrol tank.
Retaining Bolts.
Figure 3.

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Figure 4:
Attach string to each fuel tank breather pipe using sticky tape. This will assist in returning the pipes to their correct position when the fuel tank is lowered back into place at a later date.
Fuel Tank Breather Pipes.
Figure 4.

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Figure 5:
Carefully raise the fuel tank until it hits a stop point and secure it into position using a couple of bungee straps hooked through the bolt holes and wrapped around the rear grab rails.
Secure Tank With Bungee's
Figure 5.
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Figure 6:
Unclip the electrical component rubber boot from the battery top cover, (Battery cover not shown here as it has already been removed). Remove the two terminal connectors from the battery. Remove the four retaining bolts for the battery tray and air box components.
Battery Tray.
Figure 6.

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Figure 7:
Remove the battery from the battery tray and store it somewhere safe.
Remove The Battery.
Figure 7.
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Figure 8:
Use a pair of pliers to expand the hose clips on the air box and slide the clips down the hoses, (four in total as there is one located at the front right hand side of the air box). Remove the electrical connector.
Air box Hose Clips.
Figure 8.

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Figure 9:
Route the new loom wire from the headlight bulb through to the rubber boot found at the battery tray end of the original loom following the route of the original loom where possible.
Routing The Loom.
Figure 9.
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Figure 10:
Route the new loom wire through the rubber boot and into the bottom of the block connector, take note of the way the original terminals are orientated, (it should click into place). Ensure that the new terminal matches up with the green wire when the block connector is re-assembled before clicking it into place as it is difficult to remove.
Loom Block Connector.
Figure 10.

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Figure 11:
Headlight bulb block connector showing the new loom wire spade connector inserted into the vacant slot. Note the cutout in the block connector for the wire is only on one side.
Bulb Connector Block.
Figure 11.
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Figure 12:
Replace the cover on the block connector and put the connector back onto the headlight bulb terminals.
Headlight Bulb.
Figure 12.

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Figure 13:
Small black cable ties for tidying the new loom wire route.
Small Black Cable Ties.
Figure 13.
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Figure 14:
Place the battery tray into it's original position making sure the wiring loom is not snagged or twisted and that the block connector is covered by the rubber boot.
Re-Fit Battery Tray.
Figure 14.

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Figure 15:
Before replacing the air box unit check the underside to make sure the Jubilee clips are fitted correctly.
(Removing the air box cover earlier now makes it easier to see the trumpets for alignment when re-fitting the air box).
Air Box Trumpet Alignment.
Figure 15.
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Figure 16:
Replace the hoses and electrical connector. Use pliers to expand the hose clips and re-position them in their original place at the top of the hoses using the indentations as a guide to where the original orientation for the hose clip was before.
Re-Fit Hose Clips.
Figure 16.

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Figure 17:
Before replacing the air filter check it for condition. If all looks clean proceed with replacing the air filter and air box cover. Secure the cover with the six self tapping screws.
Air Box Cover & Screws.
Figure 17.
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Figure 18:
Start the bike and check that the modification to the lighting actually works.
Lighting Check.
Figure 18.

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Both headlights on gives better visibility and you are more likely to be seen by other road users.
Lighter View.
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Shown here in darker lighting conditions what the bike headlights would look like at night time.
Darker View.